Uisce Beatha,
‘Water of Life’
By Anthony Mark Happel
The Fall and Rise of Irish Whiskey
If you’re Irish and you travel anywhere outside of Ireland, sooner or later, the topic of conversation will inevitably touch on one of four things, or some combination thereof: Irish politics; Irish music; Irish literature; and Irish whiskey. All four are known the world over for their historic profundity and their distinctively Irish, and mournful, qualities. Like the others, Irish whiskey presents us with an issue of identity. Exactly what is it that constitutes an Irish whiskey, and how is Irish whiskey different from every other whiskey (or whisky) on earth?
Irish whiskeys are of two distinct types – malt and blended. They are generally triple-distilled through both column-type stills and pot stills. Triple-distilled whiskeys deliver a smoother flavor with each subsequent distillation. There are a few strictly pot-distilled brands, and they are usually designated as such on the label. Whiskeys go through a multi-stage process of malting, milling, mashing, fermentation, distillation, maturation and blending. Grain whiskey goes through a stage called “cooking” where it passes through a kind of pressure cooker which, in essence, squeezes the molecules closer together. The story of Irish whiskey begins in the seventh century when the Irish first learned how to distill from the monks who were making their way through Ireland. Monks had been distilling a drink that was known as ‘aqua vitae,’ which essentially translates to ‘water of life,’ for largely medicinal purposes. Those first distillates were most likely the earliest brandies made from various fruits. Barley-based whiskey first appears in the 1500s, and it has been noted by historians that Queen Elizabeth I was fond of it and had casks of the stuff shipped to her in London. The word ‘whiskey’ derives from ‘uisce beatha’, which is Gaelic for ‘water of life.’
In 1661, the British levied an excise tax against the Irish, which set a new course for the production of spirits in Ireland. It also facilitated the rise of Irish moonshine (poteen). Despite the tax, by the end of the 18th century there were over 2000 stills operating throughout Ireland. According to some sources there were more than 400 brands of Irish whiskey at the end of the 19th century. By the 20th century things changed dramatically. The Irish had always distilled their whiskey using pot stills, but Scotch whisky employed a column-distillation process, and this practice became the prevailing trend in whisky making. That, coupled with the loss of the US market due to prohibition, caused most of the smaller Irish distilleries to eventually shut down.
In 1966 the three remaining companies - Jameson, Powers and Cork - merged into the Irish Distillers Company (IDC). In 1972, the last of the distillers in Northern Ireland, Bushmills, joined the IDC as well. After the IDC constructed an enormous central distillery in Midleton all of the other distilleries in the country were closed, with the exception of the Bushmills Distillery in Northern Ireland. Finally, in 1989 after fourteen years of no other distilleries operating anywhere in Ireland, a new facility was opened in Dundalk by a distilling company called Cooley. Since then, the Irish whiskey market has seen a rebirth. Today there are a number of new and unique Irish whiskeys, some of which hark back to old world family recipes, while others blend flavors in whole new ways. Whiskey distilling is truly a fine art. With a broadly complex base from which to work and a seemingly boundless array of aromas and flavors that result from the process, making whiskey is as sublime an experience as drinking it. The Irish seem to have an innate sense about certain things, and Irish whiskey embodies much of what it means to be Irish.
A NOTE ON SPELLING: The Irish use the letter ‘e’ in the spelling of the word ‘whiskey,’ while Scotch whisky does not include the ‘e.’ In Canada they drop the ‘e’ as well, but in the US it is spelled both ways. No one really knows why. The most obvious and straightforward explanation is that the modern English spelling with the ‘e’ derives from the Gaelic word. Beyond that, it is a badge of identity for the Irish to distinguish their whiskey from Scotch whisky.
Jameson
For this tasting we selected a sampling designed to serve as an introduction. Let’s start with Jameson, the standard bearer of Irish whiskey. Jameson’s history is long and colorful, starting with John Jameson’s Dublin Distillery, founded in 1780, where the motto was “Sine Metu,” which means ‘without fear,’ and that phrase is still on the Jameson label today. By 1820 they were the second largest distillery in Ireland. There are several different kinds of Jameson Irish Whiskey, including a “12 Year Old Special Reserve,” and a very pricey “Rarest Vintage Reserve.” We chose the original Jameson Irish Whiskey because it represents the old stand-by for those looking for good Irish whiskey anywhere on the planet. It is the rare example of the synthesis of mass commercial appeal on the one hand and a high quality product on the other hand. Jameson’s phenomenal success is the result of a global marketing campaign, but it is also a fine example of the heartiness of Irish whiskey. It is so popular around the world that it is almost a synonym for Irish whiskey and has become somewhat of a cliche for that reason. It is a staple in any Irish pub and is available in virtually any liquor store. Most well-stocked bars will have a bottle of it somewhere on the premises these days. Or, at least they should.
JAMESON IRISH WHISKEY
COLOR: The color is a bright-ish yellow gold, more gold than yellow, but there is a dusky quality that some might refer to as amber.
NOSE: The aromas are complex and contradictory. Along with malted grain there is a hint of something sweeter, like a nut, or even caramel. There’s also a smoky quality that is hard to pin down, but it leaves some heat in the nose. As it dissipates, the aroma becomes lighter and fruitier.
TASTE: This is a bold whiskey in terms of flavor and heat, but it is also a bit on the dry side. There’s a leathery aspect to the body. I’ve heard others refer to it as oily, which seems to contradict the dryness, but maybe that refers more to the aroma. Right from the first taste it kicks fairly hard, so the flavors are masked. After your tongue settles down, again there’s a nutty quality that is sweet, but not overly so. There’s a hint of honey or apple.
FINISH: There’s a lot of heat in the chest during the finish and it stays with you throughout a long fade. Great for sipping or mixing.
Powers
After Jameson, the most popular and recognizable Irish whiskey is probably Powers. It has more recently been seen in quite a few independent, modern day gangster movies. Powers Whiskey originates with James Powers, an innkeeper from Dublin, who founded the John’s Lane Distillery in 1791. Originally it was sold under the name James Power, a decade later James’s son John came aboard and the name was changed to John Power & Son. John Power was eventually knighted and became High Sheriff of Dublin. In 1866 the whiskey took the name “Powers Gold Label” when John Power & Son began bottling their own whiskeys. Whiskey had mostly been sold in casks up to this point, and Powers was one of the very first distilleries to have the foresight to bottle the stuff. The last remaining family board member, Sir Thomas Talbot Power, died in 1936. The family retained ownership of the distillery until 1966, which brought the merger of the three remaining Irish distilleries - Cork, Jameson and Powers - to form the Irish Distillers Company.
POWERS IRISH WHISKEY
COLOR: The color is a fairly bright yellow-gold.
NOSE: The aroma is quite heady, and with a subtle suggestion of licorice, possibly. There is also a charcoal-like quality that is not bad, but it seems different from pepper. More like a burned chocolate, but you have to really effort to sense it.
TASTE: The taste is sharp. I don’t how else to define it. I don’t mean bitter, but with a bit of a citrus-like sting on the tongue, followed by quite a bit of heat on the tongue as well. There is the charcoal-chocolate aftertaste in there, also. The heat really stays in the mouth for a long while and drifts to the back of the throat.
FINISH: There is a very slow finish, and the kind of chest thump that suggests a strong traditional-style Irish whiskey. Something to warm your soul on a night when the mercury drops to unreasonable depths, as long as you can handle the kick in the head.
Tullamore Dew
Now, we come to a bit of a bend in the road with Tullamore Dew. It is another Irish Whiskey that has become very popular in the U.S. in the past several years, showing up more frequently in bars all over the country. The story of Tullamore Dew takes us back to County Offaly, Ireland in 1829, where the Tullamore Distillery was founded by Michael Molloy. It takes its name from Tulach Mhor, which means ‘big hill.’ After Michael Molloy died in 1887, operation of the Distillery was taken over by the Daly Family, with Daniel E. Williams eventually becoming general manager. His initials (D.E.W.) are the source of the name. “Give every man his dew,” was the slogan. Tullamore Dew also makes a “10 Year Old Irish Whiskey” and a “12 Year Old Irish Whiskey.” We chose the original because it should be available in any Irish pub worth its salt and most large liquor stores.
TULLAMORE DEW
COLOR: The color is a mellow amber with a golden hue.
NOSE: The aromas are a bit flat and stiff, especially compared to something as complex as The Irishman. There’s an almost metallic quality that drifts in and out. Slightly sweet, but the sweetness is overtaken by a fruitiness. There’s less heat in the nose than Jameson.
TASTE: There’s also less heat in the mouth and on the tongue, and the sweetness comes through in a more pronounced way. It’s honey-like with a subtle entry. The body is medium dry with the flavors lingering for a few seconds.
FINISH: Fairly smooth, with a shorter fade than Jameson. There’s a peppery quality followed by a somewhat oily finish. Some have said it “shows its grain alcohol character.”
FECKIN’ ORIGINAL & SPICED
Here we have two offerings that are related, Feckin’ Irish Whiskey and Feckin’ Spiced Irish Whiskey. Feckin’ is the recent brainchild of Strandford Lough pub owner Shane Braniff, who formed FDC in 2005. His focus was on whiskey connoisseurs who “want to enjoy the craic with their favorite tipple.” Their Original Irish Whiskey is 80 proof, and the Spiced is 70 proof. There’s a world of difference between the two. The Original is becoming increasingly available in Irish pubs and well-stocked bars. You may have to search a little harder to find the Spiced.
FECKIN’ IRISH WHISKEY:
COLOR: The color is a mellow amber.
NOSE: The full aroma is in the nose immediately. It’s not exactly sweet, but it has a hint of coconut underneath the bolder woodsy and citrus qualities.
TASTE: It has lighter, thinner body and it’s tangy, citrus qualities linger on the tongue for a long while. There’s a hint of graham cracker, with a bit of a leathery after-bite. It settles nicely and leaves a mildly warm, slightly buttery taste.
FINISH: There’s a very slow fade with the heat in the chest dissipating fairly quickly. Despite the bolder aspects there’s a nice, clean finish. This is a fine sipper and an excellent mixer.
FECKIN’ SPICED:
COLOR: The color is a rich, bold amber.
NOSE: The aroma is bold and spicy, a bit sugary, with maybe a hint of spiced apple pie. Strangely, there’s also a mild hint of grain alcohol. The spices are intricate and subtly interwoven so as to drift in and out. It’s hard to pin it down, exactly, but there’s also a tinge of nutmeg and cinnamon.
TASTE: The flavor almost transcends the idea of whiskey and offers something akin to a very strong spiced cider.
It’s bold and sweet but not overly sugary. The heat is swallowed up almost completely by the spice, so you taste the flavors sooner.
FINISH: There’s a bit of a kick and some spicy heat in the mouth, but it’s minimal. There’s a medium fade, with a
sweet and spicy aftertaste that lingers briefly. This spiced whiskey is a real taste treat and a nice twist on the traditional spiced spirits of old. A perfect choice for those really cold winter nights.
The Irishman
Next up is The Irishman. A 70% malt triple-distilled favorite. Matured in bourbon casks, it is another classic, old world/family style Irish whiskey with its own unique and complex properties. Bernard and Rosemary Walsh began distilling spirits in 1999 as The Irishman and Hot Irishman. The Irishman also distills a special “Single Malt” whiskey, but we chose their more readily available “Original Clan Irish Whiskey” for our tasting. Bernard Walsh personally selects each cask himself, lending this whiskey a truly personal touch. Only available in limited markets at present.
THE IRISHMAN ORIGINAL CLAN
COLOR: The color is amber, richer in tone than Jameson.
NOSE: The aromas are sweet and buttery, with a nutty aspect. There’s also a woodsy aroma with a tinge of toasted oats or grain. It’s a little lighter in the nose than Jameson as well.
TASTE: The taste is full-bodied with a spicy appeal but very smooth. Again, there’s a lot going on amidst a buttery flavor and a rustic, woodsy quality, related to the woodsy aroma, no doubt. The body is light to medium. There’s much less bite, in general, than Jameson and the subtle flavors abound after a few seconds. There’s also less heat in the mouth, but more in the neck, and the flavors stay with you.
FINISH: The heat stays in the throat for a while, and there’s a dry, peppery finish with a medium fade. Smooth and mellow, it is an exceptional sipping whiskey.
The Knot
For our final selection we make a stop at The Knot. First, it should be noted that The Knot is not actually a “whiskey.” In Ireland it is considered a cordial, and is more accurately referred to as a flavored spirit, or an Irish liqueur. In fact, there is no descriptor of any kind on the label. It simply says “The Knot.” It has a higher alcohol content (100 proof), and is unlike anything you’ve ever tasted. Available in limited markets at present.
THE KNOT
COLOR: The color is a dark golden amber.
NOSE: The kind aroma has definite vanilla and butterscotch sweetness that jumps out of the glass. It’s sweet but sexy, with a hint of something kind of earthy lurking underneath that pinches your nose.
TASTE: The taste is complex with butterscotch acting as the predominant flavor, and with a soft grainy underpinning. It’s woodsy, but not overly mossy. Like a liqueur that has turned slightly. There’s also a mild smokiness.
FINISH: It’s nice and smooth upon first going down, but it comes back at you with a second kick to the skull, and it sticks with you for a few seconds after that. Once it’s dissipated the mild sweetness comes back for an encore. Not for the faint of heart, but, “holy ghost of James Joyce,” this stuff is good!
Hopefully, we have given you some insight into the complex world of Irish whiskey and what makes it special. This is only a jumping off point. Once you’ve tried some of these selections, there’s so much more out there to be explored.
Whiskey is a truly unique experience, one that should be savored. Its history is bound up in the cultural and political turmoil from whence it came. Leave it to the Irish to take the struggles and anguish of the human experience and turn them into the water of life.
