Pine trees, right? That’s what you’re thinking, isn’t it? If so, you’re not alone. We live in the vodka age and when most people today think of gin, they think of the distinct juniper aroma which, of course, reminds them of pine trees. At least 6 out of 10 people I talk to about gin tell me they don’t like drinking pine trees, so they don’t drink gin. In the past, my response has been “fine, more for me.” You see, I’m a gin nut. I love the stuff. But I’ll tell you a secret – one I don’t tell many people: I don’t like drinking pine trees either.

You see, most good gins today don’t taste like pine trees at all. In fact, while the juniper berry is a required ingredient in order for a spirit to be classified as a gin (much like tequila must be made of agave), there is no law, no rule, that states gin must taste primarily of the pine-evoking berry. In fact, to my palate, gin has probably the most diverse range of flavor profiles of all distilled spirits – the possible exception being whiskey. Prominent flavors range from juniper, to citrus, to floral and beyond. Before we get to the gins themselves, however, how about a bit of basic information?

The word “gin” derives from “genever,” the Dutch word for juniper and the original style of what we know today as gin. Gin is created by redistilling a neutral white spirit with herbs and botanicals, which must include juniper. Usually, the botanicals are added directly into the “mash” that is then distilled. Sometimes, however, as is the case with some of the most expensive gins in the world, the botanicals are hung in packs within the column still. As each level of distillation occurs, more and more flavors and aromas are added to the finished product.

Gin, while once the dominant white spirit in America, has fallen out of favor since the rise of vodka in the 1960s. However, modern gin producers’ new focus on highlighting the non-juniper flavors in their gin and the recent trend of classic cocktails – including the resurgence of the martini – has been bringing gin back into the spotlight.

I’ve selected several gins that I feel show a good array of flavors and approaches. I strongly encourage you all to buy a bottle of each of these (or go to your favorite gin joint) and taste along. As always, remember that each person’s palate is different. You may experience these gins differently than my tasting party and I. If that is the case, please let us know by emailing us at info@alcoholmanac.com or by becoming a Bar Fly at alcoholmanac.net and posting it somewhere on the site.

Hendrick’s Gin

I had to start the tasting with a staple in the gin world. You can find this stuff everywhere. This is the most traditional gin of the bunch. This means, of course, that the juniper will be rather obvious in the aroma. Don’t be fooled, however. This gin tastes spicy at first, and then has an obvious citrus flavor. The juniper is actually subdued by the citrus and so is much less apparent in the flavor than it was in the aroma. Hedrick’s addition of cucumber makes this a very cool and very clean gin. As Hendrick’s boldly advertises, their gin is “not for everyone.”

Aroma: Fresh – probably due to the cucumber. Juniper very present.

Taste: Hot & spicy with a pleasant citrus flavor, mostly lime. Juniper is rather subdued in taste.

Finish: Long finish with an aftertaste of citrus. Leaves your mouth dry.

Stellar Gin

Stellar gin prides itself on its “citrus crush infusion” and delivers on the citrus all the way through. The aroma is distinctly lemon, although it is faint and doesn’t appear right away. The mouthfeel is oily and the flavor very citrusy – mostly orange and lime flavors. There is spiciness, however it is rather subdued. The juniper is almost not there at all.

Aroma: Lemon, but faint.

Taste: Orange and lime.

Finish: Long finish turning slightly and pleasantly bitter towards the end.

Right Gin

This gin is very different. The first thing you’ll notice is that the aroma is rather harsh, smelling mostly of alcohol. Get beyond this and you’ll catch just a hint of juniper. Upon tasting, you’ll discover that its “bark” is worse than its “bite.” It has a peppery, slightly sweet flavor with nice hint of bitter at the finish. The flavor really punches, but in a good way. The mouthfeel, you’ll notice too, is oily and syrupy – characteristic of the original genever-style gin.

Aroma: Heavy alcohol with a hint of juniper.

Taste: Intense. Peppery and sweet with a nice, slightly bitter balance at the end.

Finish: Short finish leaving the mouth clean and not too dry.

New Amsterdam Gin

My friend Jay introduced me to this gin and I fell in love with it right away. The first thing you’ll notice with this gin is that the aroma is very floral with only a suggestion of juniper. The taste is spicy with a hint of citrus and licorice that lingers through the aftertaste. It is somewhat hot on the tongue and has a thin mouthfeel. There is also a spice flavor that we were unable to identify. It finishes dry and long.

Aroma: Floral with a hint of juniper

Taste: Primarily licorice and citrus and another unidentified spice.

Finish: Long, pleasant aftertaste and dry.

Rehorst Gin

Of course, we have to end with Milwaukee’s own Rehorst gin. The aroma is out of this world unique – slightly citrusy with a very subtle hint of juniper, but mostly it is simply clean and fresh. The first sip is hot in the mouth and unashamedly of alcohol, but it finishes super smooth and leaves the mouth with a delicious lemon flavor. The addition of sweet basil and Wisconsin ginseng gives this gin subtleties deserving of the double gold it won. This gin has virtually no juniper aroma or flavor, making it an excellent non-gin drinker's gin, while still having complexity and enough botanical flavor to appease the most seasoned of gin drinkers.

Aroma: Clean with citrus notes.

Taste: Hot and heavy on alcohol which mellows to lemony and fresh. Clean, yet complex flavor.

Finish: Very long and sweet.